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Na enige tijd storingvrij te hebben gereden ging toch het beruchte lampje weer eens branden.
Ik wist al meteen wat de storing zou zijn, want de kenmerken zijn altijd hetzelfde.
Stationair toerental stijgt iets van ca. 500 naar 750 toeren en de trekkracht onderin is verdwenen.
Verder loopt de motor goed, start normaal.
Ik kreeg een P0014, dus de nokkenasversteller.
Dit heb ik al eens eerder gehad en na een oliewissel verdween de storing en de melding.
Olie ververst met Total Ineo 5w30, maar de storing kwam terug.
Ik heb een nieuwe versteller gekocht en gemonteerd, maar een andere melding was te lezen.
P 0343, Sensor A, Bank 1
Dit was dus weer een nokkenassensormelding.
Gezien het feit dat beide sensoren gelijk zijn heb ik ze omgewisseld. Mijn idee was dat wanneer de sensoren in orde zijn een nieuwe storing hetzelfde aan zou moeten geven…
Niet helemaal, want de nieuwe storing luidde:
P 0368 Sensor B, Bank 1
Is er iets wat ik nog kan proberen om te bepalen wat de culprit is?
Zijn de sensoren door te meten en zo ja, welke waarden horen hier bij?
Welke waardes horen er bij de stekkers van de sensoren?
Andere tips?
groet.
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- C3 Pluriel 1.6 16v sensodrive
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Is de nieuwe foutcode niet P0348 i.p.v. P0368?
Dat zou namelijk logisch zijn als je een defecte sensor verhuist van de inlaat- naar de uitlaatnokkenas.
Citroën en stock: DS23 Break Confort 1973, DS23IE Pallas bvm 1974, CX25TGD Turbo 2 ambulance 1990
Autres véhicules: 2x Moto Guzzi Le Mans II 1980, Peugeot 205 Accent 1.1 1993
Possédé et conduit: Honda CB500F 1974, 2CV6 1972, Renault 4F6 1977, CX2400 Super Break 1979, GSA1300 Service Tolée 1983, BX14RE 1983, BX19TRD Turbo Break 1989, XM2.1TD Break Ambiance 1994, AX1.4TGS 1993, AX1.1TGE 1995, CX25TRD Turbo 1 berline 1986
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Lijkt me toch duidelijk:
P0343: Sensor high input
P0368 : Sensor fault in input signal high.
Dat is bijna hetzelfde.
Als je de sensor verplaats krijg je een storing op de andere plaats, ergo sensor niet goed voor mij. Zet er een goede in.
To err is human, not to err is divine.
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Haha, ik heb ze nu zo vaak omgewisseld dat ik niet meer weet welke de goede is en welke niet.
(Ik krijg geen notificatie over een nieuw bericht, hmm)
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2 nieuwe dus.
Citroën en stock: DS23 Break Confort 1973, DS23IE Pallas bvm 1974, CX25TGD Turbo 2 ambulance 1990
Autres véhicules: 2x Moto Guzzi Le Mans II 1980, Peugeot 205 Accent 1.1 1993
Possédé et conduit: Honda CB500F 1974, 2CV6 1972, Renault 4F6 1977, CX2400 Super Break 1979, GSA1300 Service Tolée 1983, BX14RE 1983, BX19TRD Turbo Break 1989, XM2.1TD Break Ambiance 1994, AX1.4TGS 1993, AX1.1TGE 1995, CX25TRD Turbo 1 berline 1986
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Lijkt me het beste.
Zijn ze niet door te meten om te bepalen welke stuk is?
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Dan probeer je dat toch?
Citroën en stock: DS23 Break Confort 1973, DS23IE Pallas bvm 1974, CX25TGD Turbo 2 ambulance 1990
Autres véhicules: 2x Moto Guzzi Le Mans II 1980, Peugeot 205 Accent 1.1 1993
Possédé et conduit: Honda CB500F 1974, 2CV6 1972, Renault 4F6 1977, CX2400 Super Break 1979, GSA1300 Service Tolée 1983, BX14RE 1983, BX19TRD Turbo Break 1989, XM2.1TD Break Ambiance 1994, AX1.4TGS 1993, AX1.1TGE 1995, CX25TRD Turbo 1 berline 1986
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Ik begrijp ook wel dat ik dat kan proberen.
Ik kan echter nergens vinden welke waarden ik moet vinden.
5 volt versus 12 volt, welke weerstand…
Maakt ook niet uit, de nieuwe komen er aan.
Dat zijn al actieve sensoren, ook al zijn ze 2 draad als ik me goed herinner.
Hoe test je dat: Neem een ohm-meter in de 2Kohm ( of 20Kohm) stand, meet “linksom” en “rechtsom” de spoel, als het een spoel is dat krijg je dezelfde waarden. Anders ids het een active sensor.
2-draads actieve sensoren werken met een 12 volt of 5 volt voeding, die zetten dan een wisselspanninkje op de plus draad,in theorie kun je daaraan meten, in de praktijk kun je dat alleen als je een half elektrotechniek laboratorium hebt en een opstelling met een ABS krans of iets dergelijks. Daarnaast moet je dn ook nog data van de originele fabrikant hebben over wat het signaal moet zijn. In de auto kan ook, bijvoorbeeld als je met een scopemeter kunt omgaan, maar ook dan: wat meet je, want zijn de normwaarden ?
Sommige auto-diagnose tools ( de dure zullen we maar zeggen) hebben een geïntegreerde scope-meter voor dit soort dingen.
To err is human, not to err is divine.
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Gaat mij te ver dus.
Ik kan met een multimeter omgaan en dan houdt het wel zo’n beetje op.
Ik weet dat het om een Hall-sensor met 3 polen gaat en dat was het dan wel.
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Voor de volledigheid.
Ik heb beide sensoren vervangen en heb sinds 3 dagen geen melding meer gehad.